The First Ascent of Denali (1913): Hudson Stuck and the Forgotten Hero Walter Harper
A Landmark Moment in Alaska History
On June 7, 1913, a team of four climbers, led by Hudson Stuck, reached the summit of Denali, North America’s highest peak. While this achievement is well-known, the story of the first ascent is often told without acknowledging the crucial role of Walter Harper, a young Koyukon Athabascan man who was the first person to stand on the summit. This article aims to rectify this oversight and explore the significance of Harper’s indigenous heritage in the context of mountaineering history.
The Climbing Team and the Sourdough Expedition
The 1913 climbing team consisted of Hudson Stuck, the leader and a Presbyterian missionary; Harry Karstens, a former gold rush miner and Stuck’s assistant; Robert Tatum, a young doctor from the University of Pennsylvania; and Walter Harper, a 29-year-old Koyukon Athabascan man from the village of Tanana. This team was following in the footsteps of the Sourdough Expedition of 1910, which had reached the summit of the North Peak, a subsidiary peak of Denali. However, the Sourdough Expedition had not summited the true peak, as they were unaware of the existence of the Muldrow Glacier, which would become the key to the first ascent.
Walter Harper: The First Person to Stand on the Summit
Dheli ka’a (Denali) is a sacred mountain for the Koyukon people. It is a place of spiritual power and a connection to our ancestors. — Walter Harper’s statement in 1913
Walter Harper was a member of the Koyukon Athabascan tribe, which has lived in the region surrounding Denali for thousands of years. Harper’s indigenous heritage is often overlooked in mountaineering history, yet he played a crucial role in the first ascent. As the first person to stand on the summit, Harper’s achievement is a testament to the strength and resilience of the Koyukon people.
Frederick Cook’s Fraudulent Summit Claim
In 1906, Frederick Cook, a well-known explorer, claimed to have summited Denali. However, this claim was later proved to be fraudulent. Cook’s deception was exposed when he failed to provide any credible evidence of his achievement, including photographs or witness accounts. The controversy surrounding Cook’s claim highlights the importance of verifying information and respecting the achievements of others.
The Route and Conditions
The Muldrow Glacier Route, which the 1913 team used to ascend Denali, is the same route used by modern climbers today. The route follows the Muldrow Glacier, a 17-mile-long glacier that flows from the summit of Denali to the base of the mountain. The conditions on the glacier are extreme, with temperatures often dropping below -40°F (-40°C) and winds reaching speeds of over 100 mph (161 kph). The team faced numerous challenges, including crevasses, seracs, and steep ice walls.
Modern Mountaineering on Denali
Today, Denali is one of the most popular climbing destinations in the world, with over 1,000 climbers attempting to summit each year. The West Buttress route, which was first used by a guided expedition in 1961, is the most popular route to the summit. Climbers can choose from a range of guided climbs, from beginner-friendly expeditions to more challenging, unguided climbs. The National Park Service (NPS) issues permits for climbing Denali, which can be obtained through a lottery system. Climbers must also complete a mandatory orientation program and pay a $375 fee per person.
Base Camp Details
Climbers on Denali typically base themselves at the 7,200-foot (2,195 m) elevation Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp, which is one of the highest base camps in the world. The camp is equipped with amenities, including a mess tent, a medical tent, and a sanitation facility. Climbers must also bring their own gear, including a tent, sleeping bag, and crampons.
Modern Climbing Statistics
- Over 1,000 climbers attempt to summit Denali each year.
- The success rate for climbers is around 50%.
- The most popular month for climbing is June, with over 300 climbers attempting to summit.
- The average cost for a guided climb is around $30,000 per person.
Learn More
For more information on climbing Denali, including permit information, base camp details, and modern climbing statistics, visit the Denali National Park website. To learn more about the history of the Koyukon people and their connection to Denali, read our article on Denali Dghelay Ka’a.
Sources
The following sources were used in the preparation of this article:
- National Park Service, Denali National Park and Preserve. (n.d.). Denali National Park and Preserve.
- American Alpine Journal. (1914). 1914 American Alpine Journal.
- University of Alaska Fairbanks. (n.d.). University of Alaska Fairbanks.
- Library of Congress. (n.d.). Library of Congress.